CW2
Cumbria Way - Day 2
WEDNESDAY 4TH MAY 2022: I am staying over in Coniston for an extra day, the intent to climb The Old Man of Coniston and, if weather permits, some additional tops forming the Coniston Round. The Cumbria Way is generally a low-level walk, although with some mountain route options, but this is my opportunity to go climbing
Unfortunately, the weather forecast is mixed: rain and mist in the morning, but clearing from early afternoon. So, delay and hope is the plan!. Shame I reached the Ruskin Museum on time yesterday, that would have been a good morning activity for today. Instead I have a late ‘Full English’ breakfast at my digs, the very comfortable Bluebird Lodge, which looks out over Coniston village and the mountain – although this completely shrouded in mist at this time – then laze in my room and read for a while
At Noon, getting impatient I leave and wander along to the lake for a mooch, the air still damp with light drizzle but certainly looking brighter. I have a hot choc drink at the Bluebird Café, this busy with tourists, the steam Gondola also doing some brisk trade
I am itching to get going so decide to set off. It will take a couple of hours to reach the Old Man summit so that will be mid-afternoon, hopefully clear by then. I am going up the so-called tourist route, via Low Water, and the early climb up seems promising, the sun poking through. I am following the cascading river for a period and I see a couple canyoning, their guide hopping around like a gazelle, the couple a bit more timid!. Looks wild, but fun
As I rise it is no surprise that sunshine disappears and the low cloud base takes over, but I also find the wind really whips through, something that was non-existent down in the village. I am passing a few people on their way down, all looking very soggy!. I reach Low Water but can’t see much through the murk, so press on up the final, steeper section. Slowly & surely and before too long I reach the summit. At 803 metres (2,632ft), this is the highest mountain I have climbed in England, also my first Wainwright. Record breaker, yay!
The summit has a few people hanging out, but visibility is very limited, it totally shrouded in mist and with winds gusting sufficiently to need bracing….not ideal and not the plan! That plan was to enjoy the view and then continue along the ridge to Swirl How and some other Wainwrights, but I am not comfortable with the conditions and see no prospect of this improving any time soon, so feel I have little choice but to retrace my steps down the mountain. Shame
By the time I have returned to Low Water the visibility is improving from that of my ascent, although still poor. I am stopped by a foursome on the way up asking about conditions, with 2 of them opting to turn around, not the first I have seen do that today. A little after this I break through into sunshine and the views open up. At the slate mine workings, the ground is more or less dry, this soaked on my way up. The summit is still well covered but the higher areas seem reasonably clear now…how things change quickly on hills and mountains. I stop and have a snack break, take a few photos and enjoy the view. Coniston Water looks fabulous. This is more like it
From here I can see there is a small hill that overlooks Coniston Water with a faint trail showing, so I decide to go exploring and check out the view. Some trekking leads me to the far side and indeed some great panoramas, with colours that pop in the sunshine. Nice
Rather than return on my original route from here, I revert to Walna Scar route for some variety, enjoying the views, although the hill down to the village from the car park is steep. In Coniston village I stop off at the Black Bull Inn, this central area busy with people sat outside in the early evening sun, a good spot to enjoy a very tasty cheeseburger and pint of cider
Not wishing the time to end I walk down to the shore of Coniston Water again, for one last bit of lingering. Coniston is a lovely place to visit: a quaint village with great atmosphere, good pubs, situated between iconic mountains and historic lake. At this moment, it is looking it’s best in the glorious sunshine
The Old Man is standing out on the skyline. I am pleased to have climbed up there but disappointed not to have done so in the better later weather and continued along the ridge. If I had been an hour and half or so later, it would have been a different story. Ah well, live & learn!
