TP8
Thames Path - Walk 8
FRIDAY 7TH OCTOBER 2023: I’m back! 2 years exactly since my last jaunt I am returning to the Thames Path for another 3 day journey, this time taking me as far as Oxford. This trip has been a last minute decision, prompted by a fantastic weather forecast for this weekend – summer in October!
A plane and train journey on this Saturday morning returns me to my last stopping point, Reading. Setting out from the train station at 9:00am there is still a chill in the air but a bit of brisk walking takes the edge off and soon the sun is breaking through and those rays light up the landscape and the river…it’s good to be back
On the river the immediate impression is of lots of rowers and I discover it is race day, with a host of the rowing clubs from the local area in competition. Their coaches cycle along the towpath barking out orders or encouragement, spectators clap and shout, with lots of “come on’s” “last 300m now” and “push all the way” etc filling the air. This is spread out over quite some distance along the river and is quite the spectacle. Nice atmosphere
Around Tilehurst I am diverted from the river, in fact I think I go inland a bit early and end up with some less than scenic walking but I eventually work my way back, emerging at Mapledurham Lock which is charming. I have a break, watching the lock-keeper work the flow. Last time I was on the Thames all the locks were fenced off and unattended as a result of covid, so great to see life return
From here there is open meadow by the river all the way to Pangbourne. This area is busy, lots of walkers, many with dogs. On the river there are boats, kayaks, SUPS, even a few swimmers. Everyone enjoying the sunshine
I cross the rather smart looking bridge at Pangbourne, a toll bridge – 60p for cars, free for those on foot – to reach the village of Whitchurch-on-Thames, where I call in at The Greyhound Inn for drinks and snacks. The refreshments is needed as I enter the Goring Gap, a valley carved through the chalk hills, and actually need to climb a hill and steps! Ok, not a very big one, but a first for the Thames Path. The trail trundles along in woodland but at a higher level, giving glimpses of the river from above and the rolling hills in the background – a different view to the norm. This continues for a while, before returning to the riverbank and more meadows. Again, more walkers, swimmers and others messing about on the river one way or another
The walking is simple in context but the gorgeous weather and the atmosphere make this so enjoyable. Everyone is making the most of this last blast of summer in autumn and they all seem to be in their happy place – perhaps pottering down the river by boat, glass of wine in hand, squealing with laughter when jumping in for swim or playing fetch with the dog, canine tails wagging furiously
I cross the bridge at Goring and on the far bank enter Streatley, stopping as planned at The Swan at Streatley for late lunch. The place is buzzing but I manage to grab a table and have some great nosh. A really fine place. On leaving the Swan I pass by St Mary’s Church, a sign tagging that Lewis Carroll preached here in 1864, another little tidbit of heritage
Some open walking takes me to the Beetle & Wedge Inn, a tempter for a sit down and drink, but I resist and continue, needing to trek away from the water into Moulsford. This is a very pretty (and seemingly very well-to-do village given the notable private school facilities), so it is a pleasant diversion, but I am soon back to the river. A loop through the Cholsey Marsh Nature Reserve and passage under yet another Brunel red brick bridge (my second of the day) leads me into a change in environment: much quieter, far less people and activity
I stroll along gently, by now feeling about done, but it takes me a while to reach my overnight stop, particularly as it is on the other side of the river and I have to reach a bridge and then double back for 1.5 miles. In time I reach my destination, a quite fancy golf resort, pleased to arrive as it has been a long day with travel and then 22 miles of walking. Time for some R&R ahead of tomorrow
