TP9
Thames Path - Walk 9
SATURDAY 8TH OCTOBER 2023: A good night’s rest and I am on my way at 9:00am, a slight chill in the still air and dew on the grass, but warming nicely. I have about 20 miles to cover today, including needing to trek back the 1.5 miles to my Path start point. Yet again, I immediately see the rowers out ranging from single scullers gliding silently, to the 4’s or 8’s with the cox broadcasting instructions
I soon reach Wallingford and divert into the picturesque village for a quick mooch: seeing all the usual suspects such as churches and pubs/beer gardens
Onwards with the usual mix of nice boats, houses, quirky stuff…including WWII pillboxes. I saw a number of these yesterday and more today, one decorated with images and poppies to great effect. I had heard of these, built in 1940 to protect against Axis invasion, but hadn’t realised there were so many of them. Apparently 28,000 were built of which 6,000 or so survive today
On to Benson, however the required river crossing at the weir there is signposted as closed. This turns out to be a blessing as there is currently a replacement ferry service providing the crossing, offering a joyous little interlude. It is a busy service today and I arrive just as the small boat “Ferret” departs, but the skipper flags that he will be back in 5 minutes so I lounge in the warm sun, reflecting on a lovely day. Soon enough my water taxi returns and ferries me and a few others across the river, including another couple doing a stage walk of the Path. The landing is at The Waterfront Café, my planned breaky stop. Sourdough toast and marmalade enjoyed
From the Café I follow the river to Shillingford, where I divert through the village, albeit having a shortish stretch on a busy A-road, which is a bit of a shock to the system. When you are on the Thames Path you are almost in a different world, a romanticised version of England….yet real. It is usually beautiful scenery, quaint villages, country houses with mowed lawns, people messing about on boats and stuff, lots of “hellos” and “good mornings” with passers-by (although there is a code here, it based on density of people)
From Shillingford there is a long section of meadow walking following a long loop of the river all the way to Clifton Hampden, a quieter time but boaters, rowers and SUPers are still prevalent. There are a few feature points dotted about, one quirky one being the bridge where the World Pooh Sticks Championships are held. The English eh! At Clifton Hampden (serious “chocolate box” territory) I have lunch planned at Barley Mows, a lovely thatched pub, dating from the 1300’s, but unfortunately it is fully booked so I make do with cider & crisps in the courtyard as a pitstop and hope I can sort a plan B for food
Leaving the pub I pass by Clifton Lock and the lock-keeper is selling ice creams: one happy customer soon slurping away in the sunshine thinking “this is the life”. The temperature is a glorious 23 degrees C – is this really October?
Next up is a diversion to Sutton Courtenay, yet another pretty and historic village, the church notable as a resting place of Eric Blair AKA George Orwell, although I don’t locate the grave. I retrace my steps to the river and Abingdon Lock soon comes into view heralding the end part of todays’ trek
Abingdon is a larger town but still scenic by the river areas. Crossing the bridge I seek a place to eat, now being desperate for food, and settle on The Nag’s Head. A delicious wagyu beef burger is a treat to self, sitting outside in the early evening warmth, lots of people enjoying the mood. Nice
There have been some long periods of quiet walking through meadows or woodland today – there are less ‘honeypot moments’ at this stage of the Path – but it remains a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Of course the weather is part of this, special at this time of year, but there is a joy of walking in serene surroundings, feeling privileged to experience this unique Thames Path
