TP6
Thames Path - Walk 6
FRIDAY 8TH OCTOBER 2021: After a huge breakfast I pull on the rucksack and set out into the slightly dreary early morning, the plan to do a little tour of Windsor & Eton as laid out in my guide book. I make my way through the back streets to the rear of the Castle – which is huge, regal and magnificent. Here there is the ‘Long Walk’, a 2.6 mile straight line leading to Snow Hill with fine views: tempting, but I have neither the time to do or the weather to offer the views, so pass around to the front of the castle, where statue of Queen Victoria offers great photo opportunity. I wonder around the area, admiring the alleyways and old, historic buildings, admittedly mixed in with the touristy clutter
Leaving the castle I cross over Windsor Bridge to Eton, down the High Street, noting that nearly every shop, or place name has Eton in the title, clearly a place to brag about. Past the tailors, which have been dressing the College boys for up to 200 years, and I come to the College itself and the adjoining Chapel. The College was founded in 1440 by Henry VI and is one of the few remaining boys only boarding schools, there being around 1,300 boys (aged 13-18), with a veritable who’s who of past scholars, including 20 British Prime Ministers to date. With fees of up to £50k a year, it is for the privileged few. Today there is a thanksgiving service on so no access allowed, so I have to make do with an outside view, watching various parties roll up all suited (& robed) and booted
Turning into Common Lane I make a large loop, for some time walking alongside a seemingly never-ending rail viaduct (one of the longest in the country) then across fields to ultimately make my way back to the High Street and then back to the Thames. My tour concluded, I start my ‘real’ walk, already with nearly 4 miles on the clock
The Thames Path quickly leaves behind the urban landscape, reverting to pastures and long, tree lined paths along the river bank, although there is a last blast from Eton College with the Athens Bathing Place and the brilliant bathing rules (see photos). It is very quiet, with just the occasional boat pottering along and I notice how many are called “Lady [name]” (plus one “Lord…”). Magnificent weeping willows dot the landscape and I look out for bird life, spotting a good selection, but never sight of a kingfisher, which I hoped for
St Mary Magdalene Chapel at Boveney makes an appearance out of nowhere. Once planned for demolition, it is pleasing that buildings such as this, parts dating from the 12th Century, are now more valued and preserved, often at some effort and expense by local people. Around the corner I catch glimpses of Dorney lake, site of the 2012 Olympics rowing events
The M4 provides a thunderous interlude, marking the approach of the village of Bray, across the other side of the river. Braye is the home of fine dining at the highest level with the various restaurants of Heston Blumenthal & Roux family and their multiple Michelin Stars (the Fat Duck & Waterside Inn being the only 3 starred UK restaurants outside London). Clearly, their patrons live locally as between Braye and Maidstone are some amazing properties (mansions really), some seemingly competing to have the perfect lawn. We are talking serious money here! As an alternate, how about a houseboat for sale, yours for only £180k….tempted?
Maidstone arrives and with it another of Brunel’s famous bridges, the fun-fact on this one that it has the flattest, widest brick arches in the World. I study the engineering and the precise brickwork. The bridges of the Thames really are quite something in themselves (all 200+ of them!). This particular one is a railway bridge, but the next is public and I use it to cross to the South bank of the river, so time for water to be on my right for a change as I continue upstream
Another river management system lies ahead, Boulters Lock, famous in olden times as THE place to be seen on the river (there are some great photos on ‘Ascot Sunday’, it absolutely heaving with people). That would never be allowed now with Health & Safety. It is notable how many signs and warnings, fences and barriers litter the Thames, including around the locks, most having temporary Heras fencing now with covid signs, not sure whether a recent addition. Constant signs of don’t do this or that. I get the need for some and appreciate the dangers of water but this really seems to have got out of hand and is a blight on the natural scene
A little further on and the path diverts from the river into the small village of Cookham, renowned for being the home of artist Sir Stanley Spencer, a painter of the early 1900’s, a fine gallery showing his works. This is my planned (late) lunch stop for the day so I hunt around the options and settle on The Kings Arms Pub, quiet at this time of day (3pm) so I have one of the various lounges to myself. I select a “Buttermilk Chicken, Somerset Brie & Bacon Pie” with greens & mash. Now I am partial to a good pie and this really was a cracker. Yum
Suitably satiated, I amble the last few miles along the river bank to Marlow. Interestingly, another foodie place with celebrity chef & Michelin stars, this time the very engaging Tom Kerridge. You can certainly eat well in these parts. I had planned to explore the town for a bit today but I feel done, having completed another 18 miles, so make my way to my overnight lodgings and crash out
