DHW5
Dales High Way- Day 5
WEDNESDAY 18TH JULY 2018: Day 5 starts with an early breakfast, plus a chat with the couple from last night at the Inn, then bags packed and I am out with immediate path to Whernside.
The weather is warm, calm but a little cloudy at times – generally good for walking and hopefully for some good views.
The first couple of miles are reasonably easy but then it ramps up a bit, with some long steep climbs. I stop now and again for a breather and to take time to look at the view, this now back to familiar sights – places I have walked, experienced, that feel known. Nice.
The path is deceptive. Just when you think you may have reached the top, you realise it is teasing you, with 1 more rise, and then 1 more, but eventually this game must end and all of a sudden I am at the trig point.
Whernside is the highest of the 3 peaks (736m) and it offers a worthy climb and some great panoramas from the top. I trace my route from PYG through to Ingleborough, the ridgewalk to Ribblehead viaduct, to Chapel-le Dale to here – it is all laid out like a sort of map. On the ‘other side’ I can see big mountains in the distance, I assume the Lake District, and also Dentdale valley which is where I am heading.
Feeling very chuffed with having achieved all 3 peaks I move on, the descent from the summit a long, gentle path which swings back around towards the viaduct. At a crossroads I turn left to head North and finally leave the amphitheatre of the 3 peaks area – of course, still stealing one last look and one last photo – it is hard to say goodbye.
There have been a few people on the Whernside route – maybe a dozen or so – but as I depart this area I return to isolation. The next couple of miles are fairly mundane (in context) but after that I crest a rise and the Dent valley is set out before me.
I stop at this point, perching on a wall and open up my packed lunch from the B&B. A very fine place for lunch.
A long descent follows into the valley, but once here the route is not my favourite. In theory it should be a nice path alongside the river but it is totally overgrown, yet uneven under foot (and don’t stumble as there is barbed wire to the side).
I reach Dent, which is not just quaint – it is super quaint! – and stop at the pub for a cider.
Refreshed I continue through this rural area, some fields and then lanes through farms. For some reason I am feeling a bit ‘flat’ at this point, it is all becoming a bit of a slog and I just want to reach my destination. There is still some way to go, however, the sight of the Howgill Fells ahead of me is inspiring and makes me look forward to tomorrows ridge walk.
From here it is mostly downhill, I guess 2-3 miles to Sedbergh, which I pass by putting on some tunes and singing to the sheep (who run away!).
The weather has stayed fine, a bit cloudier since lunch, indeed some dark, heavy clouds chased me at one point, but it has cleared to another nice evening. After checking into my B&B – The Dalesman Inn – and refreshing and regrouping I have a quick wonder along the Sedbergh High Street, noting the numerous book shops which it is known for.
It is quiet around but I chose an Italian restaurant which has a bit of life and have a chicken dinner. It is not exactly fine dining but it hits the spot and I like the music – think ‘The Godfather Wedding’. Enough and off to rest for tomorrow.
A bit tough at times today, not really sure why…but onwards!
Stats: 16.1 miles, 6hr 03mins moving, 8hr 04mins total, Average moving 2.7 mph, 2704 ft Ascent
