SUNDAY 15TH JULY 2018:
Day 2 and a chance to really get into the rhythm of the journey. I had a good nights sleep in a comfy bed and am then set up for the day with a plateful of delicious French toast and bacon, plus trimmings – as it turned out this the start of a bit of a foodie day. Full marks to the Woolly Sheep Inn all round.
After checking out I walk through the Skipton High Street, admiring the distinctive stone buildings – although can’t help noticing there are a lot of pubs, obviously folks like a drink or two around here. Along the canal path and past the snoozing barges, then a diversion into Skipton woods, an optional detour from the main trail but well worth the time.
Out of the woods and across the road I pass though the local golf course, thankfully quiet, enjoying the warm, morning sunshine. It’s going to be similar to yesterday – 24 degrees or so. Nice 😊
Ahead of me is my initial destination – Sharp Haw – probably 2 to 3 miles away. This is a small hill at only 357m but even so it is a target that dominates your approach. You only have eyes for the hill as you slowly close in on it. It is generally a long, gentle climb, with a final steep push to the top and trig point summit.
The views are superb all around and I sit and drink them in. Of course I take photos but a camera just can’t do justice to these sorts of panoramic views, you can’t get the scale and depth. The only camera worthy is your own pair of eyes – and they don’t store the image, you just have to go see!
Descending from Sharp Haw I pass through a variety of fields, hills and valleys and after about 4 miles reach the tiny village of Hetton, coming across the Angel Inn. Hetton looks a fairly well to do place and this is evidenced by the cars parked outside the Inn – all Range Rovers & Mercs.
By this time I have travelled about 8 miles and am hot and feeling due a break so this seems the perfect pit-stop. The menu is interesting and I elect for a squash & spinach lasagna with garlic focaccia, followed up by sticky toffee puds with ice cream & popcorn. All excellent.
Suitably refreshed (and cooler) I move on, joining Moor Lane, having a sense of déjà-vu as this is long, straight and uphill, just like yesterday. Along the way I have a natter with a group taking shade during a 7 mile round walk.
My next main destination is Weets Top (414m) not far outside of Malham, and it is basically a long, straight stretch from Hetton, probably about 4 miles walking up the moor, with an incline just steep enough to feel.
The location is marvelous, just walking through and over these wonderful rolling hills. There are a few people about and I catch up with 2 groups at the summit of Weets Top where we all enjoy the view from the trig point. From here I can see all the way back to Sharp Haw in the distance and trace my route for the day – it looks a long way.
One of the couples is returning to Malham so we continue on together for a bit down the track and road, chatting about what we are doing. Soon enough we reach Gordale and I bid them farewell as I divert to see the Gordale Scar.
This marks a significant change in the landscape as limestone suddenly becomes much more prevalent. The approach to the scar is impressive, then the path rounds the final corner into a cul-de-sac featuring the cliffs, crags and boulders seen on the picture postcards. It is Sunday afternoon and very busy with walkers, families and a few rock climbers. I watch the climbers for a bit – how do they do that.
The Scar normally has a waterfall but completely dry at the moment. I retrace my steps and try Janet’s Foss, another waterfall, but now merely the faintest of trickles - a chap there says this is normally a pool that his kids swim and jump into.
To finish I head up to Malham Cover, probably a couple of miles away. It will actually be on tomorrows route but the weather forecast is not so good and I want to experience in fine weather. The Cove does not disappoint – I really like this. It is a fantastic spectacle, massive limestone slabs at the top, with superb views, and a towering cliff face from the bottom.
It is quite accessible so is busy with ‘tourists’ and you can understand why. This is a unique place and the Malham area generally has some of the top Dales scenery.
I take a spell to sit on the front cliff and enjoy the splendour, then potter about both at top and bottom of the cliff before finishing up and making my way into Malham village for my stay at the Lister Arms.
This is another country pub – today buzzing with people having a good time in the early evening sun – but it also has a nearby barn conversion for guests and I have a very smart room here. This is a cut above normal B&B standard – going to be hard to beat! Back at the Arms I enjoy a cheese & onion pie, with chips and baked beans – good comfort food to complete my day of excellent eats.
Stuffed and content I retire after a fabulous day.
Stats: 16 miles, 5hr 50mins moving, 8hr 03mins total, Average moving 2.7 mph, 2741ft Ascent