IOM1
Isle of Man- Day 1
THURSDAY 6TH AUGUST 2020:
I start my day with a big bowl of porridge, I will need it for what lies ahead. Today I plan to do a leg of the Raad Ny Foillan, from Port Erin to Peel, arguably the hardest one as it is takes in 3 big hills, one being the highest point on the RNF at 1434 ft. In total probably about 5000 ft of ascent and 15 miles – a good walk by anyone’s standards. The forecast is mixed sun and cloud
I catch the 08:25 bus to Port Erin which takes about 50 mins, arriving in sunshine and blue skies, lovely. A short walk leads me to overlook the beach, a natural cove with green headlands at both ends, one with a tower, where I head. Despite some confusing paths I follow the coast and find my way to Bradda Head, marked by the striking Milner’s Tower, built in 1871. By the time I reach the tower I am warm and just in T-shirt but I can see low cloud rolling in from the South. It is possible to climb the towers 40 steps, which I do for some fine views…including of the oncoming cloud. The wind is also picking up and I add a layer
I leave the tower and walk through some open moorland, splattered with yellow gorse and purple heather, slowly gaining height, but loosing visibility as I am gently embraced by the cloud, my companion for the next few hours…no great hill top views for me today. Shame
Those hours are spent basically going up and down 3 hills, each getting bigger as they go, the last one (Cronk ny Arrey Laa) being the highest point of the RNF. The climbs are reasonably challenging, but it is the descents which are the hardest. The ground is greasy and slippery, rutted and in places very steep. I really need walking poles but I have not packed them. I take some bits very, very gingerly, and manage to stay on my feet…although it is hard on the knees. It is mainly rough tracks or grass, some boggy, feeling very wild, particularly with the cloud and mist giving it something of an eery feel. Whilst a shame not to have the views, it is quite atmospheric. Other than the walking poles I have all the kit needed, I am well protected from the elements (it is very windy at the higher points) and have Garmin GPS devices and a compass, so not worried about getting lost (I know only a small island but still feels remote!)
I meet a couple of walkers following my route (who were shocked I had come down the hill without poles) and a group going the other way (who didn’t seem very well prepped to me), otherwise it is just me and the mist the whole time, although in the dips it clears somewhat, then closes in as I climb
After the hills there is a stretch along the lower coast so generally not so much mist, however, there is drizzly rain and with the path often overgrown, wet and rough/sloping I am starting to flag and feel the need for a break
Fortunately that break is ahead, Niarbyl Bay, a tiny little beach with a couple of quaint fishermans cottages, also a café 😊 I am just too late for lunch hot food service but I have a lovely pot of tea and big slice of Victoria Sponge cake. Yum. What’s more, I see out the window the sun peaking through, indeed, by the time I leave the skies are clearing and it is like a Summers day. Yey
Initially there is a bit of road walking, actually quite nice for a change to relax (not many cars), then back on to gentle cliff paths, plus a few more moderate up & downs thrown in. With the sun shining it is lovely and I stop at Glen Maye for a rest and snack. In IOM a glen is a valley, generally with flowing water, on this occasion I just sit at the beach end where the stream flows out, the bubbling noise offering the ambiance
The last leg takes me to Peel, along the way some good views. The top of the hills still have some cloud but now mainly clear and I can see along the whole coast, both North and South. I must say, Peel is a sight I am pleased to see, as I am pretty done by now
Peel does make a great entrance, with some high up panoramic introduction, then walking down towards the picture postcard Peel Castle, before joining the promenade. Peel is a fishing / seaside village, plenty of people ambling along in the evening sun. I have been pondering what to do for food but I spy a chip shop and think that a good idea, so I end up having chips & chicken whilst chillin’ out on the promenade. Nice
A 30 minute bus ride back to Douglas and I reach the hotel by 7pm – an 11 hour day. A long day, but a good day. Different, stimulating, challenging …all the things I wanted, the result I end up “happy tired”…that’s a good place to be!
