DHW6
Dales High Way- Day 6
THURSDAY 19TH JULY 2018:
Day 6 and in line with my patchy mood of day 5 generally I was not that enthused with The Dalesman Inn, for a variety of reasons, but particularly the soft and saggy bed. Thankfully I avoid the need for back surgery and make it out in one piece (mean!).
Sedbergh is immediately at the foot of the Fells so it is no surprise I am out the door and climbing very quickly. A steep climb it is too initially, calf busting stuff. Overall it takes about an hour and nearly a couple of miles to reach some sort of levelling out point, by which time I am again “on top of the world”.
The weather is being kind and I have awesome views, including last glances of PYG and Whernside to my right as a I progress.
The Howgill Fells are so different to everything else I have seen – these smooth domed, open-ground hills, folding into each other. There is no sign of limestone, and most strikingly no walls or fields – although still the occasional sheep of course.
It is odd that you find sheep everywhere along the DHW, even seemingly in the middle of nowhere. How does the farmer round them up? Maybe the sheep do a working week and then all go home for the weekend!!
I pass over Calders (674m), this arguably the start of the 6 mile ridgewalk, then I reach the highest point, The Calf (676m) and stop for a break at the trig point – more biccies. A good place to sit and enjoy.
There is a fresh wind up here, which gets a little stronger as the day passes, so I move on. I do end up changing layers quite a few times as it is easy to go from hot to cool depending on terrain (up/down) sun, cloud and wind.
It is at this point that the route ahead is laid out, with the full ridge coming into view – WOW. I walk that ridge, just gawping at the sights around me. Words & pictures just don’t transmit the feel – it is an experience, a moment, that you just know is special.
Eventually the ridge reaches an end and I begin the slow descent, knowing this is the end of the true glories of the DHW – but what glories they have been.
A few miles still to travel through the lanes to Newbiggin-on-Lune, which I take as a bit of a stroll, enjoying the now bright sunshine and blue skies until I reach Brownber Hall. Now this is a bit different – an old Victorian Country House converted into a B&B. What a fantastic place – the décor is eclectic and hip and lots of wonderful little touches.
After a shower and tidy up I sit in the lounge, in a chair by the window, drinking tea, eating lemon drizzle cake and reading last weeks Sunday Times to catch up on the news. Very civilized.
My room is great and the window looks out directly onto the Fells. Others on my trip have often had a small corner shower squeezed in, this has a walk-in shower and wet room. Seriously!. It is understandable that many rooms are functional, but classy accommodation such as this does raise the feelgood factor on the trip.
And just to top it off they now serve home-made pizza so tea is sorted (yum btw).
If day 5 was a little flat at times, then day 6 soars. Brilliant.
Stats: 11.7 miles, 4hr 22mins moving, 5hr 20mins total, Average moving 2.7 mph, 2740 ft Ascent
