FRIDAY 20TH JULY 2018:
Day 7, my last day on the trail and I depart the rather wonderful Brownber Hall after breakfast – fresh sourdough toast and chunky marmalade that would satisfy even Paddington! I emerge into a grey day, with rain forecast.
It is a ‘wind down’ day, no major climbs or adventures, a more sedate amble through moor and farmland, a chance to reflect. The moor is first up, with some easy walking, but a few sneaky looks back at the impressive Howgills, before cresting a small ridge and leaving them behind, other than in the memory.
Sunbiggin Tarn and the limestone pavement at Great Kimmond provide some interest along the way but more distant views are obscured by the increasingly grey skies – I am so thankful I did the Howgills yesterday, this weather would have ruined such a wonderful walk.
This walk turns to farmland, indeed passing directly through working farms on a few occasions, which always feels a bit odd.
At this time the drizzle has finally turned into persistent rain, albeit relatively light so I take the opportunity to get indoors for a while by popping into the Three Greyhounds Pub in Great Asby for a toastie. The landlords there are new(ish) and I have a good chat (being the only customer). They, like several others I have met, are now trying to make a living in the hospitality industry, part of which is offering services to walkers. They are all working hard and investing money, trying to be their own boss and live in a wonderful area of the UK. I wish them well.
Shortly after leaving the village the rain becomes heavier and the sky is leaden – this looks set in now – so I finally relent and move to full wet weather gear. A few lanes and then fields and farmland follow, all broadly following the river bank.
On the entire walk to date, I have rarely come across cattle – just lots and lots of sheep – but here I have a chain of 3 or 4 large fields full of cows. Fortunately, they are all well behaved – just giving me the stare as I keep as wide a berth as possible – often not possible as they always seem to stand where I want to go!
By now the novelty of walking in the rain has worn off but I am fine – generally dry inside. As it happens there is a positive to this. In this area several of the paths are ridiculously overgrown – some to chest height, some containing nasties (nettles etc) – certainly not the sort of thing to wear shorts & t-shirt. With lots of layers and wet weather gear I was Mr Invincible and just mowed down these bits. Ha!
Another pub at Hoff beckons but I only have about 3 miles to go and I figure too much hassle to mess about with all the clothes and stuff for a stopover, so I keep on going. A little climb up a slope – almost forgotten what that is like – and over the rise Appleby-in-Westmorland pops up.
My final destination in sight. A few more fields, wild, overgrown paths and road leads me to Appleby centre and the Tourist Information Centre where I pick up my certificate, sign the book and buy my DHW badge. Chuffed.
Up the road I locate the Midland Hotel, my last stopping point, chosen as it is right next door to the train station. I check in, then strip off all the gear and sort myself out. My celebration meal is at the pub: lasagna and chips – not overly glamorous but hot & tasty – with a pint of cider.
And so, I have reached the end and I raise a toast to the Dales High Way – what a cracker!
Stats: 13 miles, 4hr 25mins moving, 5hr 20mins total, Average moving 2.9 mph, 1024 ft Ascent