CW4
Cumbria Way - Day 4
FRIDAY 6TH MAY 2022: A day advertised as ‘stunning’ so a lot to live up to! Unfortunately, the weather will not help, as it is forecast to rain for most of the day ☹. I start with a big breakfast to power up and then set off with it still dry, but with clouds frowning. The initial run is again along the bare valley floor, the surrounding mountains looming, albeit with low cloud on the tops. Still, pretty impressive
Stake Pass is the target a couple of miles in at the end of the Valley – a 500m ‘up and over’. The ‘up’ is ok at a steady pace, but at the top the rain starts, so it is on with the wet weather gear. The top is in fact a sort of cauldron, and reaching the far side I should be stunned with the view over the following valley, Langstrath, instead I need to use my imagination as mostly gloom. Shame
The path slaloms down the far side, then there is a trek along the valley floor. Yesterday the valley was rural and pretty, but Langstrath is different, a wild, uninhabited stretch. Initially, the path is rough and my walking pole useful. Other than some sheep and the odd (soggy but cheerful) walker, there is little sign of life
Excuse the pun, but the rain does put a dampener on things. Of course, I know there will be variable weather – this is the Lake District after all – but it is simply not as nice as when the weather is fine. Then it is easy to sit and enjoy surroundings as yesterday, here with rain limiting the view and everything soaked, it is a different vibe. I am still appreciating being out in this wonderful environment, but…you know
At the end of Langstrath I turn left, the surroundings becoming more lush. Thankfully the rain has eased to a lighter level, but I do feel that I need a break. Thankfully, Rothswaite beckons and with it the Flock-in (“the walkers tea room”), which is doing a roaring trade for damp walkers. A sausage butty and the largest ever mug of tea work their superpowers and I feel refreshed and raring to go again
So much so that I make a spur of the minute decision to summit Castle Crag – the lowest of the 214 Wainwrights. I try the path that I can see on my map but half way up think…this is not a good idea! The path is steep and slippery, not too bad going up but likely a nightmare coming back down. I persevere but very near the top reach an impasse – a seeming jungle of loose slate and fallen trees. If there is a route I can’t spot it and there is nothing I am prepared to risk, so a complete fail! Getting back down is tricky, half sliding in places and using a lot of energy – leg muscles burning come the end. Overall a bad call and undid all the restorative power of the Flock Inn break. Researching this later I realise there is a ‘proper’ route up, not the path I followed (lesson to be learned – a few dashes on a map can be anything!)
I amble on, recovering from the exertion, and decide to pop in to Grange for more food and drink. There is a lovely café there, great menu…but closed! Nevertheless, it has a covered veranda so I take shelter from the persistent rain and sort myself out (feet airing necessary). At this time, I also make another decision. My original plan was to divert from the CW path and climb Catbells for the views of Derwent Water, but the weather is just not in a giving mood. It is slowly improving now and visibility is much better low down, but it is not meant to be
Some fine woodland walking takes me to the shores of Derwent Water and some nice flat paths – the first of the day and welcome after some of the rough ground, so making for easy walking. As with Coniston, reaching the lake makes you feel mentally ‘almost there’ but in fact it is a long way yet and after a while this does become a bit of a trudge to the end
Finally I reach Keswick, the largest town mid-route, which is fairly busy on this Friday evening. The skies are clearing and the sun is poking out now, just to tease, but I am done and am happy to crash out at my digs for the night, the Skiddaw Hotel
It has been a long day, with some rough terrain and poor weather leaving me feeling a bit drained. A day to be satisfied on what achieved, but hard to enthuse over at this moment
